DIY Drywall Questions

- 1 1/2 inch screws
- screw in to just dimple the paper
- rent a drywall lift, it's the best $30 you'll spend.
- for boxes, I dry fit the piece, and give it a little tap against the box. this marks the box on the back side of the sheet, then you can just poke through with your drywall saw and cut it out. I'm sure there's other methods, but this resulted in zero miss-cuts for me.


- mudding:
4 inch knife for tape step (I thought paper tape was great to work with).. slather some on there, whatever it takes.. then come back with the knife and even it out a little.. put the tape on, hold it with your finger to get it started, with some pressure, drag knife across tape at about 45 degree angle, squeezing out the excess. At the end of a seam, I'd take just the little tiniest amount of mud and skim over it real quick one last time. Doesn't need to look good yet. Less is more.

wait a day. knock the crumbles off with your knife. now, with 6 inch blade, get some mud on there, and then come back over it to feather, remove excess etc. Still doesn't need to look great, and still, LESS is MORE.

wait a day. same as previous step, but with wide knife, at least 10 inches. This was the easiest coat for me. Still, less is more (else you'll be sanding for ages) and you're better off going over an area at most twice. After that, it's not getting better, just give it an extra coat later if you really messed it up.

sanding
- I barely sanded at all. If you use as little mud as possible while still getting good coverage, a wet sponge will take care of most of it. I sanded for about 15 minutes total.


edit: actually, with the above methods, my nice joints (taper to taper.. rather than butt joints) are invisible now that I've painted. Pro quality for sure. For butt joints, I found in some instances that the final coat was more easily applied with multiple passed going the direction opposite of the seam instead of trying to mud straight down the seam like I did everywhere else. It really turned out fine in the end, but had I known how much harder the butt joints would be, I would have taken far more care in making sure all seams were taper > taper edge


hope it helps, pros, correct me if I'm way off (although it's all taken from books/pro advice etc.)

hey tom, I'm a relative novice, but just finished my drywall work, so here's my tips from one non-pro to another- 1 1/2 inch screws- screw in to just dimple the paper- rent a drywall lift, it's the best $30 you'll spend.- for boxes, I dry fit the piece, and give it a little tap against the box. this marks the box on the back side of the sheet, then you can just poke through with your drywall saw and cut it out. I'm sure there's other methods, but this resulted in zero miss-cuts for me.- mudding:4 inch knife for tape step (I thought paper tape was great to work with).. slather some on there, whatever it takes.. then come back with the knife and even it out a little.. put the tape on, hold it with your finger to get it started, with some pressure, drag knife across tape at about 45 degree angle, squeezing out the excess. At the end of a seam, I'd take just the little tiniest amount of mud and skim over it real quick one last time. Doesn't need to look good yet. Less is more.wait a day. knock the crumbles off with your knife. now, with 6 inch blade, get some mud on there, and then come back over it to feather, remove excess etc. Still doesn't need to look great, and still, LESS is MORE.wait a day. same as previous step, but with wide knife, at least 10 inches. This was the easiest coat for me. Still, less is more (else you'll be sanding for ages) and you're better off going over an area at most twice. After that, it's not getting better, just give it an extra coat later if you really messed it up.sanding- I barely sanded at all. If you use as little mud as possible while still getting good coverage, a wet sponge will take care of most of it. I sanded for about 15 minutes total.edit: actually, with the above methods, my nice joints (taper to taper.. rather than butt joints) are invisible now that I've painted. Pro quality for sure. For butt joints, I found in some instances that the final coat was more easily applied with multiple passed going the direction opposite of the seam instead of trying to mud straight down the seam like I did everywhere else. It really turned out fine in the end, but had I known how much harder the butt joints would be, I would have taken far more care in making sure all seams were taper > taper edgehope it helps, pros, correct me if I'm way off (although it's all taken from books/pro advice etc.)

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