Frequently Asked Questions - Windows Doors Lift and Slide -

If you start noticing moisture accumulating between your double glazing panels, it could indicate that the seal between those two panes has worn away and is no longer keeping moisture out of your home.

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This can result in mildew and/or mould growing between the glass panes over time. The hot summer air and the cold winter air should not enter your home through any closed doors.
If you are experiencing drafts with each season, it may be time to replace it.

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OK....after looking at Chris's pictures, here's what I think...

The windows ARE original.....they have sheetrock or plaster returns and no visible wood except a sill on the bottom that is just decorative....the 44" width he was talking about is where they just ran the sill a few inches to each side of the opening for decoration. Chris, it's just sitting there basically....nailed to the rough framing sill underneath and serves no function other than trim/decoration and isn't even attached to the window.

The windows appear to me to be the typical aluminum double hungs with a nailing flange on the sheathing that is now covered with the J channel and aluminum siding. There is small wood trim pc on the sides and tops that has a groove routed in it to hold a storm panel or screen...but in one pic, the left side of that is missing, so I think it will be easy to pop all of that off....the sill pc the same way.....

These are going to be a bit of a pill to get out without damaging the siding or inside plaster.....here's what I'd do....

I'd take off the screen/storm and the wood strip it mounts in. IF you happen to get lucky and can see where the nailing flange joins the window frame, you could sawsall the flange, leave it in the wall and just remove the window that way....but I kinda don't think you're gonna be that lucky.....

So, the "conventional" way I do this is take both sashes out...sometimes you have to take the glass out first, then **** the sash and just wreck the dang thing out....sometimes they will come out without doing this, I'd just have to be there to tell ya for sure, but you need to get down to where you just have a frame with NO sashes in the way. THen take a scrap of plywood, put against the plaster return and stick a small pry bar in the joint of the plaster and window frame and pry inward...You're going to damage the plaster right at that point, but the good news is the vinyl replacement is 3 1/4" deep vs the 2" or so of the existing aluminum frame, so the new window is going to cover most of this damage UNLESS you get real carried away.

Keep prying....change to a BIG dadgum crowbar when you can get it in the crack to get some leverage.....you're basically shearing the nailing flange off the nails holding it...if you're lucky, they didn't use ever 16p nail on the job to install them.....Keep working you way around the frame until you collapse it inward enough to get it out of the hole.....it's gonna be scrap metal when you get done for sure, but it's the only way....with the aluminum siding outside, you only have inside to work with....sorry....

The new window needs to be measured to fit that inside plaster opening size.....measure each opening, as they will often vary somewhat depending on the way the plaster/sheetrock was installed.....and keep a GOOD list so you don't have to RE-figure out what was what on install......When you order them, specify EXACT SIZE or they will automactically cut them 1/2 to 3/4" and that WILL foul you up....just make sure your sizes ARE right.....windows are given width first and height second.

On installing, you can basically set the window in the hole wherever you want in terms of depth.....It's gonna depend some on what you do to trim the outside.....I make trim pc out of aluminum coil stock, but you have to have a sheet metal brake to do that...You could make a wood trim pc....you'll need something, as the new window is going to be slightly smaller thant the J channel opening around the siding...so decide that on the first window, then figure where the window needs to sit in the opening to work with that trim, then you can set the rest of the windows to that depth. Install with screws supplied in the holes predrilled in the window sides....screws will go thru the plaster and into the wood behind.

Caulk the joint in the inside where the window meets the plaster and that wood sill ( the window is sitting up on top that sill now)...IF you had to mess up the plaster TOO much to get the windows out, you could make a wood extention jamb, butt it to the new window and out the plane of the wall,( looks like it would be a 2" or so wide pc after you get the window in ) then install wood casing trim lapping over the edge of the extension jamb.....it could sit on the "wings" of that existing sill and make a REAL nice trim out vs. that sorta cheapy looking plaster return.....

Outside, pack fiberglass insulation in any gaps, then add your trim pc, caulk the joint where it joins the J channel and the window. Paint as desired.

CLear as mud ?

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