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Im in MA so maybe things are different in other reigons. Also I have seen more re-bar being used in the past few years in footings but It's my observation that it has more to do with lliability than any technical issues.

Rebar is an essential part of concrete construction when the concrete is STRUCTURAL, like a bridge deck or a parking structure. In typical residential construction, not so essential. Now before you start to flame me...tell us how many times you have poured a footing of a foundation... tell us how many you have dug up in the course of your business or projects and then tell us how many failures you have seen.
The most important factor in a compressive concrete application or assembly is the load bearing capability of the soil, its state of compaction and proper drainage of the area. In applications where the load bearing capability of the soil is sufficient, we have poured concrete foundation and stemwalls with no footings at all, just a 10 inch wall on the gravel. The oldest example of this I can personally remember is about 45 years old now, no problems. It works just fine if the soil conditions are favorable. If the soil conditions require that the load needs to be spread over a larger area, a footing is needed. The only reason you would put the bar in the footer would be to make the concrete able to bear a load in the presence of a breach in the soil under the footing. I'm suggesting that the soil compaction and drainage, properly addressed, will afford a more stable and long-lived project than just having a footing reinforced with rebar. The thought process you need to maintian is one of how to transmit the load of the building to the soil below.
If I understand the OP, he is concerned about whether or not to use rebar in the block stemwall. This may be a good idea so long as the bar is grouted into the footing and the cores of the block are filled to transmit side loads on the block wall to the bar and ultimately to the footing, but it's been done without bar zillions of times too.
As far as pinning the floor to the walls, this is probably not a good idea. Again it goes back to the soil conditions and drainage. The bottom of a typical concrete foundation assembly, footer or no, is bearing on soil that is at a depth that is immune to annual frost events. This is not the case with a floor. The floor is bearing on soil that is at grade or slightly above. That soil is subject to annual frost events and the degree to which it moves during a frost is directly related to the moisture content of the soil and how evenly that moisture is distrubuted throughout the soil under the entire area of the slab. So, it's safe to assume that you footer/wall assembly will be very stable since it is bearing on soil at a depth that is not subject to frost events and your floor is bearing on soil that IS subject to frost events. Tying these two features together is a recipie for failure if there is any frost event under the slab. Using rebar to tie two concrete pours together to prevent lateral movement is a sound idea whether the application is foundation section to foundation section ( both bearing below the frost line) or floor section to floor section to ensure that there is no shifting between sections.
Another often overooked detail in the construction of a garage is removing any fill material from the frost pour in the area of the garage door openings to allow the floor pour to honch down over the fill material and bear on the lowered section of the frost pour. While this detail seems to run contrary to the importance of having a concrete floor bearing on compacted fill above the frost line and being allowed to "float", letting the pour of the floor come all the way down to the frost wall is an important detail in keeping moisture from under the slab. This area of the slab is always particularly prone to moisture admission into the supporting soil and results in a moisture gradient under the slab which tends to cause the front few feet of the slab in the door areas heave up and crack during a frost event. In an instance where the soil that the slab is bearing on is wetter on one end of the slab than the other, given that the entire area is subjected to the same freezing temperatures, only one end of the slab will heave. It's unlikely that any amount of wire or rebar in the floor will stop the floor from cracking under these conditions simply because the section thickness of a typical garage floor isn't thick enough to accomodate the amount of reinforcement that would be needed to withstand a situation where you're literally lifting up one end of the floor and expecting the rest of it to follow without deflection or failure.
While it's probably not a bad idea to put a vapor barrier under the floor, it will do nothing to help the floor withstand freeze/thaw cycles or resist cracking or increase its ability to bear a load. It will however be helpful in keeping soil moisture out of the slab to improve the chances of good performance from any subsequent floor finishes.

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